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Travelling from Istria towards Zagreb or Dalmatia, most routes lead through the brusque port city of RIJEKA , hardly worth a stopoff in its own right but an important transport hub for onward travel. Regular buses run from Rijeka to Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik; and it's also the starting point for the once-daily Jadrolinija coastal ferry, which calls in at Split and Dubrovnik on its way south. Rijeka is easy to get in and out of. Train and bus stations are about 400m apart; the former at the western end of Trpimirova, the latter at the eastern end of the same street on Trg Zabica. The Jadrolinija ferry office (daily 7am-6pm, Wed & Sun till 8pm; tel 051/211-444) is just along the waterfront from the bus station at Riva 16.